Two questions: How could it possibly be October already? And why in the world is there a picture of raw ground beef on TMCCFHVW?
Mea maxima culpa for the extended absence, my loyal and intrepid readers. Major events in the life of The Militant Carnivore have caused me to neglect my blog for a while, but I’m back on the horse, and will be attempting to post something new once a week from this point on. Thanks for bearing with me.
As for the “ground beef” above, look closely. What you’re looking at is actually this:
A roasted beet and a roasted potato, about to be run through a food mill. Nary an animal product in sight. What we have here are the makings for beet gnocchi.
I’ve long made gnocchi with sweet potatoes, and the latest Bon Appetit had a recipe for butternut squash gnocchi, which I found perplexing: How could that possibly have a high enough starch-to-moisture ratio to stick together? The answer was that the recipe called for two parts potato for every part butternut squash. I couldn’t decide if the addition of potato to “butternut squash” gnocchi was dishonest and deceptive or brilliantly elegant, but I figured I’d steal the idea anyway.
I’ve just recently gotten into beets, and I’ve realized that they’re a lot of fun to play with. They provide a welcome sweetness to many savory dishes, and their inimitable color is unlike anything else in the vegetable world. I figured that mixing some potatoes into the dough would work just as well for beet gnocchi as for butternut squash gnocchi, and a simple brown butter with rosemary would be the perfect sauce for these bright fuchsia orbs (which look somewhat like uncooked meatballs and which are therefore likely to shock and horrify your vegetarian guests before they realize just how delicious these gnocchi are).
By the way, some people make perfect-looking gnocchi; I don’t. I add only as much flour as needed to make a dough that has barely enough cohesion to form spheres and to stay together in the cooking water. While these gnocchi will never be pretty enough to feature on the cover of Saveur, they are deliciously tender. If you want more traditionally shaped gnocchi (with the characteristic ridges created by rolling the gnocchi off the tines of a fork), add more flour: Your gnocchi will be chewier, but if you’re careful not to knead the dough too much, they shouldn’t be tough (I think). The choice is yours.
- 1 large beet, roasted and peeled
- 1 large russet potato, roasted and peeled
- flour, as needed (at least 1/2 c)
- 1 clove of garlic
- olive oil, a slug or two, as needed
- 2 T butter
- 1 sprig of rosemary, plus more for mincing and garnishing
- 1/2 c Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
Pass the beet and potato (which should be good and thoroughly cooked) through the coarse holes of a food mill into a large mixing bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and then cover with a good coating of flour.
Stir together with a spoon. The mixture will be extremely sticky. Stir in more flour until the mixture is just dry enough to be handled. You should be able to roll it into logs.
Stick the gnocchi dough in the fridge while you bring a large pot of water to a boil. When it’s at a rolling boil, salt it generously.
Smash and peel the garlic clove. Add it along with the butter, olive oil and the spring of rosemary to a large skillet over medium heat. Take out the gnocchi dough and cut it into 1-inch pieces. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water. Cook until the gnocchi rise to the surface and are pleasantly firm, about 3-5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the butter-olive oil mixture. Cook over medium heat for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently, to coat the gnocchi with the brown butter mixture.
It still looks like raw meat, I know. But trust me: It’s good. Mince up a little bit of rosemary and strew it with the grated Parmesan over the gnocchi. Serve immediately.