It is highly regrettable that, in some circles, arugula has become a code word for effete yuppie snobbery. Good, honest, salt-of-the-earth Americans apparently will eat romaine, Boston bibb and the occasional bunch of spinach, but, for reasons unknown, arugula seems to smack of elitism and pretension in a way that Swiss chard, say, doesn’t.
This is regrettable because arugula is nothing less than the greatest food on the planet. That was not a misprint: It is THE greatest food in the world. I could eat arugula every day and never tire of it. I’m sure it’s chock full of vitamins, antioxidants, phytochemicals and all sorts of things that will improve my blood pressure, peace of mind, inner harmony and credit history, but I could care less, to be frank. I’m in it for the flavor. Arugula just tastes great. I crave it. I crave it the way some people crave a seared medium-rare ribeye (which, as it just so happens, is the perfect accompaniment to an arugula salad). I crave it the way some people crave bacon.
Speaking of bacon, I have a request for the United States of America: Can we please chill out on the bacon, just a little bit? Please? Don’t get me wrong: I love bacon as much as the next man. The insistence of some restaurants to slip bacon into seemingly meatless dishes, however, makes it rather more difficult than it needs to be for me to have an enjoyable dinner out with my Lovely Vegetarian Wife. Does that curried pumpkin soup really need a garnish of lardons? Must the green tomatoes be fried in bacon fat? And are you seriously offering a Bloody Mary made with bacon-infused vodka?
I have a sense that bacon has become many a poor cook’s crutch: When in doubt, throw some bacon on it. This does a disservice to many wonderful foods whose opportunity to shine is snuffed out by bacon’s overweening smokiness; conversely, when I feel like mainlining all of bacon’s saturated fat, sodium and nitrates, I want to get my money’s worth and put the bacon flavor front and center. Rich, smoky, salty, meaty—bacon that tastes like bacon. What could be more American than that?
One food that is assertive enough to stand up to and pair beautifully with bacon? How did you guess that it’s arugula? Now we’re back to our much improved version of the BLT: the BAT, a sandwich that allows sweet, smoky bacon and spicy, peppery arugula to share the spotlight. The one thing left to do for this sandwich is to upgrade the standard supermarket Cardboard Tomato. A little roasting does the trick (since we’re baking the bacon, we can just roast the tomatoes right alongside), as does grinding the tomatoes with some almonds to make a quick pesto.
For a vegetarian, bacon-less sandwich, almost any grilled or roasted vegetable you want would pair beautifully with the arugula and tomato-almond pesto. Cheese would also be a natural addition: I can imagine a few slices of fresh mozzarella wedged amidst the arugula. To compensate for the missing bacon’s smoky edge, I would add a little pimentón to the tomato-almond pesto (or just go whole hog, as it were, and use romesco).
- 3 thick slices of good bacon
- 1 handful of grape tomatoes
- 1 sandwich roll or 2 slices of bread
- 1 garlic clove, peeled
- 1 handful of blanched slivered almonds
- olive oil, as needed
- 1 handful of arugula
Place the bacon on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Place the tomatoes in a separate baking dish. Put the bacon and the tomatoes in the oven and heat the oven to 400 degrees. (Whenever baking bacon, start with a cold oven. It stays straighter this way.) Roast, stirring the tomatoes occasionally and flipping the bacon after about 10 minutes, until the tomatoes are cooked to death and the bacon is brown and crispy on the edges.
Slice the roll in half and toast it. Rub the cut side of the bread with the garlic; discard the garlic clove (or, better yet, put it in your vegetable stock bag).
Add the tomatoes and almonds to the food processor along with enough olive oil to get the mixture moving. Pulse a few times until the almonds are coarsely ground and a loose pesto is formed. Add a few grinds of black pepper and perhaps a little salt (but, remember, you’re putting bacon on top of this). Add a few tablespoons of this mixture to one side (or both sides!) of the roll.
Layer on the bacon and arugula.
Put the other half of the roll on top, smoosh the sandwich flat (you could even give it the panini treatment, if you want), cut in half diagonally and enjoy.
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